vancouver (!)

So ya, perhaps I haven't been so diligent with the blog... But here we are home after having two Saturdays in a row thanks to the wonders of moderne jet travel. Current;y 430am and I am jet-lagged so thought I would make a final entry (and import photos).

We flew from Sukhothai to Bangkok, scruffy Sukothai having in the end what just might be the most charming little airport in the world - right down to the free coffee and snacks in the one open-air departure lounge. It was very good to have a one hour flight down to Bangkok rather than an 8 hour bus trip through (albeit lovely) Thai countryside. And I think Traci was somewhat relieved to finally be going somewhere she was familiar with!

Our final few days in Bangkok were a steady round of temples (Wat Arun, Wat Po), final cheap Thai food and beer, some aimless wandering, and of course - shopping. We came away with one Very Large Bag Traci could have fit into but that was only 3/4 full and included duty free treasures as well (the main one being an 18 year old Glenmorangie). We also managed to figure out the Bangkok skytrain which is easy enough if you don't have to change lines (different companies run different lines to no smooth exchanges it seems). Makes it easy to get from Khaosan Road area to the downtown area, first by riverboat, then the train.

We could certainly see evidence of the floods in Bangkok, mainly sand bags along the river and detritus being swept up. If any of you know Banglumpoo and the fort the water seems to have come level with the upper grassy area but doesn't seem to have spilled over into the channel immediately around the fort itself. Our weather was better in BKK this time around as the monsoon storms are now staying to the south. Still raining much down there it seems so the islands' beach tourism must be suffering (people kept asking if we'd been south and what the weather was like, apparently we seemed travel-worn).

Wandering around the city I was certainly torn between on the one hand feeling glad the trip went well and to be going home to familiarity, and on the other knowing the holiday was over and there was still so much we could see and do! I can hardly grumble though can I? Or can I ... ?!

Oh ya, damn cold here.

sukothai

Have left Chiang Mai behind and its our second evening here in Sukothai, about 5 hours by bus to the south. Chiang Mai was very enjoyable: very easy to find guesthouses and food (indulged in a steak and Guiness pie at the Irish Pub), the zoo turned out be middling to quite good (esp. the aquarium and pygmy marmosets!), the pandas, white tiger, and lone orangutang were good as well but we felt sorry for the single otter. We in fact managed to get on with the gibbon trip which turned out to be a very good time and besides the rush of the zip lining we did see gibbons - 3 of them including a baby. They were at the very top of a tree and a few hundred yards away but the view was clear anough. Spent our last day there simply wandering around the city and, since it was Sunday, found at least one huge temple party going on with much prwying and feeding of the multitudes happening! So yes, Chiang Mai seems a very good place to stay and also to act as a base for exploring northern Thailand more thoroughly.

Sukothai is an ancient capital of a formerly quite large area of this part of the world, roughly 13/14th century. The main draw is a large area of temple and wat ruins outside of town. This "Historical Park" is great to explore, Sukothai proper is a bit scruffy
and chaotic but we have landed in one of the nicer guesthouses in town so are quute comfy. The usual way to explore the park is by bike but as we were riding outside the main area and into the countryside to see some more far flung sites my tire blew. So I pouted and winged as we walked all the way back to the main park and the bike rental shop. Did find the best espresso in Thailand on the way home though so somewhat mollified.

Oh ya, had dinner last night at the Chopper Pub and Restaurant, Harleys parked outside and good curry to be had inside!

Hard to believe but tomorrow we fly to Bangkok (a one hour flight seems better than an eight hour bus ride) for the last few days of our trip. A few sites to see in Bangkok, some shirts etc. to buy downtown at MBK plaza, and home Saturday... Ciao for now...

chiang mai

After being denied a final, quiet night living in high style because the locals down the hill decided to put on a rock 'n roll banshee-a-thon til all hours we caught the bus to Chiang Mai. It was a remarkable, if somewhat lurching and swerving, trip down through the lush, rolling jungled hills (with wats and stupas emerging through the greenery and one huge stupa on top of one huge hill)- I can see why motorcyclists love riding here.

Have been in CM only for the afternoon but so far we're enjoying a kinder, gentler version of Bangkok and its been easy to find a guesthouse and pretty decent coffee as well. The traveler area within the old city is a labyrinth of said guesthouses,local businesses, coffeeshops, wats, pubs,travel agencies, and the inevitable massage parlours. Its not too bad to walk around but one still has to keep one's wits alert to traffic and be bold when crossing streets.

Our digs here approach spartan but at $15/night we can't grumble. Tomorrow its off to the zoo/aquarium (which is supposed to be decent enough) and trying to book a gibbon/zipline trip for the day after that. Tonight its off to the night market and just might stop in for a pint of Guiness (on tap) at the local Irish pub. I think Liverpool ans Chelsea are on live there at midnight tonight but I don't think I'll quite make that one.

All in all a good day's travel and its also nice that neither of us have been here before so we're exploring together, Aah, there goes the evening gong from the local wat: sunset!

Cheers
KerryTraci

PS: Haven't been able to figure out how to scroll within this text box in order to edit so thats what I blame the typos on...

the mush-room to phu chaisai resort and spa

I have been on Asia time it seems, hence the bloglessness. We left the sublime to the ridiculous experience that is Angkor Wat and Siem Reap and flew north to Laos and Luang Prabang. " LP" is a bit like the Canmore of Laos, full of charming guesthouses, pretty decent food, and lots of outdoor and indoor things to do. However, our first night there we spent i what we have come to call the mushroom: a dank, airless, spore-filled cell that has left me with a bit of a cough. We moved down to a dry, airy, and spacious place near the river the next day. We spent a few days there, taking in the various hilltribe centres, wats, palaces, museums, etc as well of course doing some shopping. The night market goes every night and Traci was able to buy some very nice Laos skirts. Between wanting to mellow out for a bit and our various coughs, knees, etc we didn't avail ourselves of any biking, kayaking adventures but did go for a nice drive out into the country to see a local waterfall.

I think the best part of LP was the very nice Chilean merlot we discoverd at the local wine bar, the worst part was, yes, it has finally happened: I ate some bad noodles at a night market buffet and ... whoosh - both end (thankfully not simultaneously). This little
experience happened as we overnighted on out 2-day slow boat trip from LP north to Houey Xai, the Northern Laos/Thai border crossing. The boat trip was really nice, slowly chugging up the Mekhong through some quite spectacular country. Oh ya, the boat broke down! Fortunately we were able to drift, sputter, and pole our way to a beach on the other side of the river where another boat came along and picked us up.

So while I was a bit under the weather for day 2 of the river it was still enjoyable and I felt better as the day progressed. We overnighted in Houey Xai, a dusty, scruffy, border town enriched by the opium trade, before water taxiing across the river the next day to Thailand. Once rough all the border formalities we caught a rough and tumble local bus up to Chiang Rai, the main city in far northern Thailand. That too was a great little ride through some much cleaner, more organised, and generally more affluent countryside than Laos.

Afer all of that the main event of the day was finding our way up to the resort spa we had booked for ourselves. We had a hard time finding a taxi and finally rented a car and driver from a rental agency. We were both a bit nervous about our reception at the resort as well since I assume we are at the lower end of their clientele's income continuum. Besides, we were both pretty stinky... however, after climbing and climbing up through the hills north of the city we were met by friendly and welcoming staff who then UPGRADED us Yaaaay. I think what that meant is that besides the lovely 4 poster bed, very hot shower with super pressure, bathtub, robes, slippers, fridge, we also have a terrace on whichbto sit and gaze out over the great unwashed toling away below us.

More of the resor later as I have booked a 2 1/2 hour spa session where they will do far too many things to me to describe at the moment. Had a bit of the return of the whooshing thing last night so hope I get through ghe spa thing with my dignity intact. Traci will be by the pool....

Will try to be more conscientious about the blog dad,

KerryTraci

Angkor Wat

The Old Market area of Siem Reap is fast becoming the Khaosan Rd of Cambodia but still a kinder, gentler version of it. Angkor Wat, however, remains as breathtaking as ever. It being Traci's first time she, of course, cried at first sight. We've spent the last couple of days tuk-tuking around the temples with another day tomorrow which will include venturing out into the countryside a little bit further to see "The Lady Temple." Not splurging anymore on our room, we've descended to a fan-only which is 12/night, so far its been ok as it seems a bit cooler here. Weather has been great the last couple of days but keeping an eye out for Typhoon Megi to see if it has any impact on us.

Currently sitting in the Blue Pumpkin cafe which is like time-warping back to 4th ave, but I left Traci here to Facebook and went off to the stinky part of the market to check out the well-plucked but not beheaded chickens, slithering fish, slithier eels, and assorted marine life minutes away from the supper table.

Traci craving pizza which is not hard to find and then its off to Miss Wong's Cocktail Bar which is down a suspicious looking lane. Onward,

Traci&Kerry

tk adds

another universal truth ~
#26 :
cafe tables wobble the world over ~

tk thinks

that there are universal truths to be found whilst travelling ~
universal truth #364 : children chase pigeons

phnom penh

Its the afternoon of our second full day here, we were hoping to leave tomorrow but not enough people for the boat to Siem Reap (Angkor Wat) so not going now until Wednesday. The last couple of days have seen lots of wandering around town, taking in the National Musuem (a really lovely oasis of calm), the hill of Wat Penh, some shopping at the Central Market, a fair bit of eating, and generally getting to know the place. Today the object of our desire was the Russian Market and while we gave the attempt to walk there on our own a good shot in the end we hailed a tuk tuk. However, I'm quite sure the streets, allies, markets, we came across are not on any published walking tour...

The Russian Market was as I remembered, an almost impenetrable maze of stalls full of everything from Buddhist and Hindu Statuary to very cheap black market dvds (got the complete set of Black Adder for 4 bucks), to sweat shop clothing to endless food - you get the picture. Oh ya, we had the Best Ice Coffee in PP - with a Facebook page to prove it!

Weather has been ok, rainy season a month late and what that seems to mean is about an hour of cloud and at times hard rain per day, more refreshing than anything as long as you're not caught out in it (as we were yesterday, lesson learned!).

Ended up in an amazingly huge room, very well appointed and complete with a vast semi-circular balcony and tres moderne washroome and shower hardware, all very comfy and currently writing this on the rather large bed as we wait for said daily rains to end.

Tata for now, Kerry&Traci

PS: Yes we have been finding decent coffee although it does take a bit if searching. The usual local stuff I find to be very nutty and served up with sweetened condensed milk. It takes going to an upper end shop to get the good stuff.

TK writes

WHAT DAY IS IT ?????????
bahahahahahaha !!!

trains, touts, and temples

Caught the 0555 train from Bangkok to the Cambodian border and it was certainly not the express. And while there was not a curve to be had the entire 5 hour journey it was a warm, breezy, if at times a bit wet ride through the Thai countryside. We were kept entertained by Thai infants and toddlers and musings about the various characters on board.

The Thai Cambodian border was a tout ridden gong show: money for the tuk tuk from the train to the visa shack, (too much) money for the visa, the bike ride to the ATM since they wouldn't take USD, money for the taxi to the border which was close, "only 2 minutes, now only 5 minutes, just here." Then the border itself and a scruffy border shack and Thais handing money to the border guards but we were exempt... Finally, the taxi? Oh no, a bus first, "Only 5 minutes..." At last a terminal where the taxi was waiting, but first let me call the driver because we need more people for the taxi, wait please 5 minutes. In the end there we were on our way to Battambang with a young couple from France as bewildered as we were, except they were told they could pay for the taxi or wait overnight for the next morning's bus.

Oh ya, the temples: hassles worth the wait for a very quiet roam aroung 1000 year old temples outside town. They're up on a hilltop so lovely views from the crumbling ruins.

Should say more but long day and off to Phnom Penh tomorrow so more about the Bamboo Train next time. We are well, settling into a traveling routine, and looking forward to the next bend.

Location, location, location

Location: 3rd floor balcony (facing London, back to Vancouver), Lamphu Guesthouse (1 block north of the Democracy Monument), Bangkok. Its 3am and I'm sleepless so decided to throw some some cushions under my naked butt, sit out on the balcony and update the blog. Currently 27C and 80%rh so very comfy happy joy joy, maybe I don't have to write anymore! The main thing is Traci is enjoying herself so far, having launched her more serious traveling career in such a dramatic way - but then I'm not too too surprised given her taste for the exotic, i.e., me... Bit o rain on my toes all of a sudden, feels nice, and which reminds me: the current fad on Khaosan Road is to dip your feet into a tank of minnow-sized fish which then proceed to nibble (in an apparently relaxing if ticklish sort of way) all the Bangkokian detritus off said feet. 150B for 15 minutes. Patpong tickling is about the same price I should think.

Food highlight: Traci's cashew chicken here at the guesthouse last night; I swear those cashews were pulled out of the ground yesterday, and sorry Saba Thai, but the rest of the meal beat anything Vancouver has to offer.

Thing-to-do highlight: Ya the long tail boat rental approaches Tacky Tourist but snorting along the klongs (canals) south of the river is pretty damn heavenly. There were not a few
riverine dwellings I can see myself retiring to - beautiful wooden and weathered homes with
orchid strewn balconies, some with soaring Thai gables, laughing waving Thailets, and all surrounded by lush marine jungle.

So early days yet but we're beginning to sort our traveling routine, mainly in "Leisure Mode.". Might spend an extra day here as moving on to Cambodia seems a bit rushed at the moment. I think feeling that way is a good sign.

Aaaaaahhhh

Here we are, having a lovely breakfast outside in the warmth beside the pool after the flurry of trans pacific travel! Trip over went smoothly and we were at the guesthouse and settling by noon Sunday. Spent the day orienting ourselves, which included struggling through red shirted crowds around Democracy Monument, and introducing Traci to at least this tiny corner of Bangkok. Weather warm and overcast, guesthouse easily the nicest I've stayed in here, and the little bit of food adventuring we've done so far has been great. Today the plan is to hire a longtail boat and head upriver for a couple of hours - but for now, it's just staying here on the brekky patio and feeling warm and smug :-)

Traci and Kerry

day 1

I'm at work for the morning; Traci on the The Drive changing money and doing last-minute stuff. I wiill spend the afternoon doing that myself then an evening of food, wine, but mainly waiting for close midnight then off to the airport.  The most exciitng part of this post is to say the next one will be from Bangkok.... yaaaaaaaay!

boarding passes

Up at 0245 last night to reserve seats.  I wasn't sure if I needed to but by the time I logged in 90% of the seats were gone!  It looks like we're next to the can but still, that means Traci will be able to stretch out her titanium knee.  This combination of printing our own boarding passes and taking only carry-on makes things very easy at the airport - now just have to get Traci Metal Knee through security....

2 more sleeps!

Its Wednesday, Oct. 6.  Trying hard to appreciate the anticipation of heading off but of course that's a bit difficult.  I work 2 1/2 more days, Traci's final work day is tomorrow.  I can feel my mind stretching outward already, remembering how it feels to be a Little Dot with this big old world all around me rather than being a Little Dot shuffling to and from my Surrey office every day.   Now all I need to remember is fear is excitement without the breathing - and then to breathe! 

Been checking the Bangkok weather.  Seems the monsoon may be hanging in there, its been 30C but "heavy showers" daily so hoping its simply those 5-minute deluges in between drier spells.   Drier, cooler weather forecast for later in the month - cooler being lows of 20.  Just hoping to get away from Vancouver without having to scrape ice of the windshield...

50

Yes its true!  I have finally entered into that healthier, wealthier, and wiser experience of life otherwise known as Middle Age.  Thankfully any grumblings associated with reaching this milestone are negated by the fact that I (we) are off on this reasonably insane trip.  Celebrations were lovely and heartwarming and thankfully not too over the top: the new hat from Traci, the Scotch and chocolates from The Ladies, the daypack from Cathy, and of course the new tools from Geoff are all greatly appreciated and all will be well and lovingly used.

We are now one week away from departure (on one of Cathay Pacific's new 777-300Es) and it will be a full week: off to Campbell River and Parksville this weekend to see friends and family, a full week of work and last-minute details until finally we drink a long-kept bottle of wine before catching the cab to the Canada Line and on to YVR. 

We think we're ready...

Money!

I know departure is getting close when I shift money from my ING Vacation account into my regular account.  I also checked the exchange rates today: $1 = 30 Thai baht, 4200 Cambodian Riels, or 8000 Laos Lak. 

2 weeks to day we're off!  Getting up this morning in the coolish house, looking at the grey skies, assuming there would be rain, preparing for work, all I look forward to is getting up in the SE Asian warmth, NOT getting ready for work, and having breakfast made for me.  Oh ya, Traci does that for me here.  OK, I bet Traci is looking forward to a reprieve from morning coffee and porridge making :-)

Another breathlessly exciting installment

Anyone following along with keen delight might like to know Traci has discovered that one of the side effects of Imodium is, right there in black and white, "mild diarrhea."  We hope not to prove the veracity of this caution...  Other exciting tidbits are that she, the increasingly giddy-with-anticipation-Traci, now has a lovely red "Genuine Leather" passport holder and her first, very own travel towel.  We have also discovered people must be making huge coin selling various potions, lotions, pastes, gels, etc in bottles of 100ml or less.

This is also the part of the trip (which in my mind mind has all but started) when, at 3:19am, I begin to think of all the things that could horribly wrong from being bit by a spider which causes one's blood to coagulate into sponge toffee consistency to seeing my passport fall accidentally into some unspeakable, unendingly deep boghole.

The days go by...

and we're at less than 4 weeks before departure (for, eventually, above).  Bought a couple of guide books on the weekend, one for Bangkok proper and one for Cambodia/Laos.  I have mainly used Bangkok as an entry/exit place in the past and it will be much the same this trip but certainly want to explore more this time around. I'd like to get across the river to Chinatown and also hire a boat to take us upriver for the day, the suggestions are that taking the time for longer tours is the better value.  Still getting the last few details organised: tried to get Traci a  travel towel and passport folder at Europe Bound but their service sucked so we left it all on the counter; Traci still needs her Hep booster; and we're still not sure what's to happend with the house - looking for a renter but may have to settle for a house-sitter.

Oh ya, less than 2 weeks til 50...

4 weeks from this moment...

we will be enjoying our first evening in Bangkok.  We're into that lovely period of time where there is less time before departure than we will be away.  This also means we're finalising and confirming reservations (see link: http://www.phu-chaisai.com/), realising we don't need to go to Costco anymore, going through lists of final things to do: $US, Travelers Cheques, buying a guide book (our neighbour loaned us a book from an excellent series called "Travelers Histories, not guide books but pithy, condensed histories of many countries and regions) appointments for final vaccinations, smugly enjoying the cooler, rainier weather, etc.  Being neurotic I had to go through all the ticket printouts this morning to reconfirm departure times (245AM) and dates (Oct.9).   If you're interested its 13.5 hr flight to Hong Kong,  a 2 hr layover then 2h40m to Bangkok.

For me its 2 solid weeks of work, then a 4 day weekend which includes my 50th birthday party, then two shorter work weeks and we're off!  Traci will work energetically and continuously as usual but we both have the Friday off before we go.  Did I really have to write that?  I mean that 50th thing... happy I'm off an another mad adventure shortly thereafter :-)

Traci very much enjoying her new iPad and looks as though it will be helpful and entertaining for our journey.

Ciao!

Kerry&Traci

Preparations thus far

Off we go to SE Asia! Thailand, Cambodia, and Laos departing Vancouver Oct. 9, 2010 returning Nov. 13.  For those of you who know me you will know I have been a few times before, most recently in 2007.  This will be Traci's first Asian adventure and first major overseas trip.  This will also be our first major trip together - so far our few days camping and traveling here and there have gone very well and we have no reason to think otherwise for Asia.

Planning going well so far: tickets bought and a guesthouse reserved for our Bangkok arrival and we've also decided to pamper ourselves at a spa/resort near Chiang Rai (northern Thailand) toward the end of our journey.  Vaccinations are well underway, backpacks (carry on!) bought as well as headlamps, bug dope, a  cool hat for Traci, and flip flops all ready to go.  Oh ya, mustn't forget the iPad Traci bought just yesterday :-)