Angkor Wat

The Old Market area of Siem Reap is fast becoming the Khaosan Rd of Cambodia but still a kinder, gentler version of it. Angkor Wat, however, remains as breathtaking as ever. It being Traci's first time she, of course, cried at first sight. We've spent the last couple of days tuk-tuking around the temples with another day tomorrow which will include venturing out into the countryside a little bit further to see "The Lady Temple." Not splurging anymore on our room, we've descended to a fan-only which is 12/night, so far its been ok as it seems a bit cooler here. Weather has been great the last couple of days but keeping an eye out for Typhoon Megi to see if it has any impact on us.

Currently sitting in the Blue Pumpkin cafe which is like time-warping back to 4th ave, but I left Traci here to Facebook and went off to the stinky part of the market to check out the well-plucked but not beheaded chickens, slithering fish, slithier eels, and assorted marine life minutes away from the supper table.

Traci craving pizza which is not hard to find and then its off to Miss Wong's Cocktail Bar which is down a suspicious looking lane. Onward,

Traci&Kerry

tk adds

another universal truth ~
#26 :
cafe tables wobble the world over ~

tk thinks

that there are universal truths to be found whilst travelling ~
universal truth #364 : children chase pigeons

phnom penh

Its the afternoon of our second full day here, we were hoping to leave tomorrow but not enough people for the boat to Siem Reap (Angkor Wat) so not going now until Wednesday. The last couple of days have seen lots of wandering around town, taking in the National Musuem (a really lovely oasis of calm), the hill of Wat Penh, some shopping at the Central Market, a fair bit of eating, and generally getting to know the place. Today the object of our desire was the Russian Market and while we gave the attempt to walk there on our own a good shot in the end we hailed a tuk tuk. However, I'm quite sure the streets, allies, markets, we came across are not on any published walking tour...

The Russian Market was as I remembered, an almost impenetrable maze of stalls full of everything from Buddhist and Hindu Statuary to very cheap black market dvds (got the complete set of Black Adder for 4 bucks), to sweat shop clothing to endless food - you get the picture. Oh ya, we had the Best Ice Coffee in PP - with a Facebook page to prove it!

Weather has been ok, rainy season a month late and what that seems to mean is about an hour of cloud and at times hard rain per day, more refreshing than anything as long as you're not caught out in it (as we were yesterday, lesson learned!).

Ended up in an amazingly huge room, very well appointed and complete with a vast semi-circular balcony and tres moderne washroome and shower hardware, all very comfy and currently writing this on the rather large bed as we wait for said daily rains to end.

Tata for now, Kerry&Traci

PS: Yes we have been finding decent coffee although it does take a bit if searching. The usual local stuff I find to be very nutty and served up with sweetened condensed milk. It takes going to an upper end shop to get the good stuff.

TK writes

WHAT DAY IS IT ?????????
bahahahahahaha !!!

trains, touts, and temples

Caught the 0555 train from Bangkok to the Cambodian border and it was certainly not the express. And while there was not a curve to be had the entire 5 hour journey it was a warm, breezy, if at times a bit wet ride through the Thai countryside. We were kept entertained by Thai infants and toddlers and musings about the various characters on board.

The Thai Cambodian border was a tout ridden gong show: money for the tuk tuk from the train to the visa shack, (too much) money for the visa, the bike ride to the ATM since they wouldn't take USD, money for the taxi to the border which was close, "only 2 minutes, now only 5 minutes, just here." Then the border itself and a scruffy border shack and Thais handing money to the border guards but we were exempt... Finally, the taxi? Oh no, a bus first, "Only 5 minutes..." At last a terminal where the taxi was waiting, but first let me call the driver because we need more people for the taxi, wait please 5 minutes. In the end there we were on our way to Battambang with a young couple from France as bewildered as we were, except they were told they could pay for the taxi or wait overnight for the next morning's bus.

Oh ya, the temples: hassles worth the wait for a very quiet roam aroung 1000 year old temples outside town. They're up on a hilltop so lovely views from the crumbling ruins.

Should say more but long day and off to Phnom Penh tomorrow so more about the Bamboo Train next time. We are well, settling into a traveling routine, and looking forward to the next bend.

Location, location, location

Location: 3rd floor balcony (facing London, back to Vancouver), Lamphu Guesthouse (1 block north of the Democracy Monument), Bangkok. Its 3am and I'm sleepless so decided to throw some some cushions under my naked butt, sit out on the balcony and update the blog. Currently 27C and 80%rh so very comfy happy joy joy, maybe I don't have to write anymore! The main thing is Traci is enjoying herself so far, having launched her more serious traveling career in such a dramatic way - but then I'm not too too surprised given her taste for the exotic, i.e., me... Bit o rain on my toes all of a sudden, feels nice, and which reminds me: the current fad on Khaosan Road is to dip your feet into a tank of minnow-sized fish which then proceed to nibble (in an apparently relaxing if ticklish sort of way) all the Bangkokian detritus off said feet. 150B for 15 minutes. Patpong tickling is about the same price I should think.

Food highlight: Traci's cashew chicken here at the guesthouse last night; I swear those cashews were pulled out of the ground yesterday, and sorry Saba Thai, but the rest of the meal beat anything Vancouver has to offer.

Thing-to-do highlight: Ya the long tail boat rental approaches Tacky Tourist but snorting along the klongs (canals) south of the river is pretty damn heavenly. There were not a few
riverine dwellings I can see myself retiring to - beautiful wooden and weathered homes with
orchid strewn balconies, some with soaring Thai gables, laughing waving Thailets, and all surrounded by lush marine jungle.

So early days yet but we're beginning to sort our traveling routine, mainly in "Leisure Mode.". Might spend an extra day here as moving on to Cambodia seems a bit rushed at the moment. I think feeling that way is a good sign.

Aaaaaahhhh

Here we are, having a lovely breakfast outside in the warmth beside the pool after the flurry of trans pacific travel! Trip over went smoothly and we were at the guesthouse and settling by noon Sunday. Spent the day orienting ourselves, which included struggling through red shirted crowds around Democracy Monument, and introducing Traci to at least this tiny corner of Bangkok. Weather warm and overcast, guesthouse easily the nicest I've stayed in here, and the little bit of food adventuring we've done so far has been great. Today the plan is to hire a longtail boat and head upriver for a couple of hours - but for now, it's just staying here on the brekky patio and feeling warm and smug :-)

Traci and Kerry

day 1

I'm at work for the morning; Traci on the The Drive changing money and doing last-minute stuff. I wiill spend the afternoon doing that myself then an evening of food, wine, but mainly waiting for close midnight then off to the airport.  The most exciitng part of this post is to say the next one will be from Bangkok.... yaaaaaaaay!

boarding passes

Up at 0245 last night to reserve seats.  I wasn't sure if I needed to but by the time I logged in 90% of the seats were gone!  It looks like we're next to the can but still, that means Traci will be able to stretch out her titanium knee.  This combination of printing our own boarding passes and taking only carry-on makes things very easy at the airport - now just have to get Traci Metal Knee through security....

2 more sleeps!

Its Wednesday, Oct. 6.  Trying hard to appreciate the anticipation of heading off but of course that's a bit difficult.  I work 2 1/2 more days, Traci's final work day is tomorrow.  I can feel my mind stretching outward already, remembering how it feels to be a Little Dot with this big old world all around me rather than being a Little Dot shuffling to and from my Surrey office every day.   Now all I need to remember is fear is excitement without the breathing - and then to breathe! 

Been checking the Bangkok weather.  Seems the monsoon may be hanging in there, its been 30C but "heavy showers" daily so hoping its simply those 5-minute deluges in between drier spells.   Drier, cooler weather forecast for later in the month - cooler being lows of 20.  Just hoping to get away from Vancouver without having to scrape ice of the windshield...

50

Yes its true!  I have finally entered into that healthier, wealthier, and wiser experience of life otherwise known as Middle Age.  Thankfully any grumblings associated with reaching this milestone are negated by the fact that I (we) are off on this reasonably insane trip.  Celebrations were lovely and heartwarming and thankfully not too over the top: the new hat from Traci, the Scotch and chocolates from The Ladies, the daypack from Cathy, and of course the new tools from Geoff are all greatly appreciated and all will be well and lovingly used.

We are now one week away from departure (on one of Cathay Pacific's new 777-300Es) and it will be a full week: off to Campbell River and Parksville this weekend to see friends and family, a full week of work and last-minute details until finally we drink a long-kept bottle of wine before catching the cab to the Canada Line and on to YVR. 

We think we're ready...